DAY 1: YEAH, WE KINDA LOVE IT HERE
It’s an absolutely gorgeous day in Seattle. We planned this trip 6 months ago and we couldn’t be more excited to be here. We take the Link light rail into the city from the airport—a good 45- minute ride—then drop our bags at the Air Bnb and head straight to the Public Market. So. Many. Humans. Granted, it’s Saturday and by all accounts it should be raining right now but it’s blue skies all around and the people are loving it. It’s tough to stop and take it all in, we more work our way through like a herd of cattle. But the gorgeous flowers and the fresh fish and the spectacular produce —it wasn’t lost on me.
The line for a Beecher’s grilled cheese is out the door but it moves quickly and there’s plenty of people watching and a table of cheese samples so we’re good. If I ever make it back, I would order the mac and cheese and then find a place to take a nap immediately after.
From there we just roam the city — getting a lay of the land. Again, it’s an absolutely stunning day. We stop for drinks here and there and Karl is grabbing photos at every turn — so much energy in this city. We cover Pioneer Square, a portion of Capitol Hill, all over downtown then head to Chinatown for dinner. World Pizza (vegan) was a sad pizza snack but the beer was good and we made up for it with Dim Sum at Harper City restaurant where we met a very chirpy and excitable man waiting in line. He told us the place is so good there’s often a line out the door on Sunday mornings. There are so many families there, out for the evening. Everything was tasty but I can’t stop thinking about the fried tofu and the garlic greens.
DAY 2: TICKET TO RIDE
We’re on a train! I’m a dork, but this was a bucket list item for me and it did not disappoint. (I may have seen too many black & white movies as a child.) In fact, none of us had been on a train and adjusted our trip to make it happen. Legroom, great views, bald eagles, mountains, quintessential towns, and scenic info from the train captain with the velvety smooth voice—this is the way to travel.
We’ve arrived!
It’s another beautiful day (thank you Vancouver). It’s a big, modern city with industry along the water, and brimming with a shockingly horrendous homeless population. Mental illness, open drug use, large groups taking over city parks – some passed out, some sleeping, some staring or screaming. None asking for a handout. This harsh reality rattled our group, for sure. But we pushed through and began exploring the city.
Fun Fact: Australians love it here. About 2,000 Aussies move to British Columbia each year for the mountains, the outdoor adventure, and an easy place to go to “get off the rock.”
Day 3: OUTDOOR VANCOUVER
We’re headed about 2 hours north of the city to find some nature.
Grouse Grind sounded amazing — a crazy climb up the side of a mountain (2,830 stairs, 3,700 foot summit, people run this thing) with a bar at the top and a sky ride back down — but it was closed due to repair.
Capilano Suspension Bridge sounded cool, too but cost $78. We decide to check out the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge with a few beautiful stops along the way. We hiked around the park then headed a bit farther north to Whistler. A bougie ski town that felt a bit like Disneyland with clean village streets filled with restaurants and expensive shops. But it was a fantastic day and we had a wonderful lunch before heading back to Vancouver. Stopped by Stanley Park Seawall — a beautiful bit of nature right in the city. Inside the park there’s an aquarium, a teahouse, several beaches and the world’s longest uninterrupted waterfront path.
That night we walked around Gastown, had a not-so-memorable dinner at a pub then finished the night at The Keefer Bar. Super dark, small, quirky and we were lucky enough to grab the last table in front of the tiniest stage I think I’ve ever seen. The entertainment, the vibe and the drinks were all spot on.
Day 4: THE PERFECT DAY
Up early, Karl and I walk to Nemesis coffee and snack on a footlong cinnamon twist as we make our plan for the day. We walk down to the water—more specifically, Burrard Inlet, and all around Canada Place, a unique building that houses the Convention Centre, a hotel, and a virtual flight ride called “FlyOver Canada.” The building is covered with a fabric roof that look like a series of sails —quite striking. It’s also where the Alaskan cruise ships board, for future reference.
Next, we head to the market on Granville Island. Our itty-bitty ferry takes us over for $4. The market hasn’t opened yet so we roam around the small island popping in stores and watching as it starts to come alive. More pastries and puppies and flowers and some of the most beautiful produce I’ve ever seen.
We make a few laps, every shop looking more delicious than the last, finally settling on a lox bagel. Which, I just learned, is a word in the English language that has not changed in sound or meaning in 6,000 years. Say it with me. Lox.
We find seats looking out at the water and stay longer than we planned. We dive back in for more—this time, macaroons and a Chai Masala and then we meet Stephen, a sharp, elderly man in a sweater vest. He asks if we’d like to try a sample of his snacks. Karl says “absolutely!” I wish now I’d asked Stephen more questions but he did most of the talking and asking. He told us how his wife makes all the snacks by hand. His favorite is the S’mores mix but he’s not allowed to eat it. He asks where we’re from and says, “oh, the 3 Cs—Cincinnati, Cleveland, Columbus. Which one do you live in?” Turns out he’d traveled there as a young sports fan more years ago than he could remember. Stephen’s the kind of guy you could talk with for hours. Wise, interesting, great sense of humor and a twinkle in his eye that rivals old Saint Nick. After many samples and quality time with Stephen, we decide on some garlic peanuts and hop back on the ferry toward the other end of town.
We take the Sky Train to Commercial Drive, one of Vancouver’s oldest and most ethnically eclectic streets. It’s full of shops and restaurants and more interesting people. We check out a bookstore, a guitar shop, the Cannibal Café for a beer, and enjoy the beautiful day. Back on the train, we decide to get off by Science World. It’s this giant silver ball (geodesic dome, to get technical) that was originally constructed for the 1986 world’s fair. One of many examples of Vancouver being a child and family-focused city.
Out for dinner in Yaletown, we make reservations at a sushi restaurant called Minami. It was so SO good. A combination of Japanese and West Coast cuisine, their square “rolls” are cooked using the Aburi flame searing technique. That’s culinary lingo for “sushi game changer.”
Day 5: BACK IN (THE) SEATTLE AGAIN
On the train bright and early, we head back for some quality time with Seattle.
We stop in a clothing store and end up with the owners “must do” list. First stop is next door to the Honey Hole. Their tagline is “Damn, that’s a good sandwich.” We hit the Starbucks Reserve Roastery, because, well, you’ve got to. Again, a bit like Disney world. Gorgeous. There are four bars for coffee, cocktails and food. We sampled coffee from a bourbon barrel. Yum. Karl ordered an espresso, which was more about the experience of having it made than drinking it, and we watched the coffee beans make their way to the roaster and wondered if we needed new jobs. It was quite show.
Next, an historic automotive building (built in 1919) on the west end of the Pike-Pine neighborhood known as Melrose Market, is an indoor food and retail market with original brick and exposed heavy timber. So yeah, it was quaint. Inviting. Well-appointed. And downright charming. Coffee, restaurants, liquor, spices, meat, Taylor Shellfish, where Karl gets his oyster fix, and a small, quirky area upstairs where you can write fortunes for other people’s fortune cookies. I could come here every day.
Capitol Cider had the best cider I’ve ever tasted. The bartender had just moved there from Virginia and was working 3 jobs. Learning cider was one.
That night we had ramen for dinner then hit Linda’s Tavern in Capitol Hill, where Kurt Cobain was last seen alive. It’s a cowboy-themed dive with a big patio where we caught the end of prom night just in time for a quick photo.
This place is an institution. Or, as The Stranger put it:
Linda’s opened with four beers on tap and no food, and became an immediate institution—a place musicians worked and hung out, a place to meet your friends and talk for hours.”
Day 6: EAT, DRINK, ART
Another early morning walk around the city, we grab coffee at Stumptown and stop at this wood-fired bagel café called Il Tana. Not because we were hungry but because…wood-fired bagels. So stinkin’ good. We did their crossword of the day, ate our bagels, and watched dogs go by. The perfect way to start the day. The plan was to hit the MoPop—museum of pop culture. We don’t usually do museums but this was a must. Highlight was the Nirvana exhibit.
Lunch at Un Bien was nothing short of amazing. But a journey to get there. We took a Lyft to Ballard for Caribbean sandwiches slathered with aioli on a lightly toasted baguette with fresh cilantro, pickled jalapenos, romaine and caramelized onions. And please don’t forget the fire-roasted street corn. Holy hell.
We hit up Bop Street Records, bourbon samples at Heritage Distilling Co. and the beer garden at Stoup Brewing. So perfect after a day in the sun.
Rounding out the night with Canon cocktail bar – which is stupid cool and insanely expensive. Like, hard to get in, sorry we’re at capacity type place. Karl stuck with a Manhattan because the bourbon book was just plain overwhelming. Seriously, a 2oz pour for $400? Wow. I ordered the POOH BAH COCKTAIL rum, gin, Swedish punsch, apricot (c. 1937) because it was unlike anything I had seen. I didn’t love it. Should’ve ordered the one that came in a little claw foot bathtub.
In their words:
Home to the Western Hemisphere’s largest spirit collection, Seattle bar Canon: Whiskey and Bitters Emporium has achieved unprecedented, worldwide acclaim. Named Best Bar in America by Esquire, Canon received Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards for World’s Best Drinks Selection (2013) and World’s Best Spirits Selection (2015), and Drinks International included it on their prestigious World’s 50 Best Bars list.
Wow.
Day 7: A GREAT ENDING
Our last day in Seattle includes Joe Bar Café in Capitol Hill for breakfast and all around Pike Pine and Capitol Hill—Elliott Bay Book Company, Lost Lake for lunch, Locust Cider Tap Room (more delicious cider), Ballyhoo curiosity shop, Sunset Tavern, an awesome bar with a cozy music venue in the back, Coastal Kitchen for a drink where we made friends with the customers and learned that the bartender just moved back to Seattle after spending a few years in …wait for it…Columbus, Ohio. Living in Old Town East. Working down the street from us at the Crest. He seemed like he had good taste so we took his (strong) suggestion to hit Golden Gardens Park for sunset.
We get dropped at the top of the hill and make our way down so, so many steps to the beach. It’s full of people, kids mostly, volleyballs, music, beach fires. We snag a log by the water and take it all in. People, the view, and finally, the sunset. Totally worth it. And far better than the rooftop of our air bnb like we’d originally planned. Thanks bartender guy who used to live in Ohio!
On our way back, we pop into an art gallery event that was wrapping up—American Artificial Limb. Karl buys a piece and chats with the artist about the printing process. Everyone’s young and hanging out near the DJ who’s keeping things going. I envy these kids. To be 23 in Seattle? Hanging with the art scene. Hell yeah.
The cherry on top of this fantastic day? A Seattle Dog (a hot link with cream cheese and sautéed onions) from a spot near our place known as “The hot dog stand by Chop Suey.” Not sure if it was the anticipation (we thought there’d be stands everywhere but they only come out at night near events and bars), or the long day but nothing has tasted quite so good.
Goodnight, Seattle. Thanks, Vancouver.
It’s been a pleasure.
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