We got a lot of inquisitive faces, head turns, and awkward silences when we announced where we were headed over Labor Day weekend. I get it. The Burgh doesn’t sound glamorous. And it isn’t. But the food is good and the people are nice and the character is a wonderful combination of the midwest and the east coast. And sometimes, you just need to get out of town.
FIRST STOP, RANDYLAND
Repurposed garbage? Art? A personal expression of joy guaranteed to make you smile? This is Randyland. And it’s always changing. Because Randy collects and paints almost daily. The 61-year-old lives in the house and has a studio on the first floor. It’s free to wander around the grounds but take your time or you’re bound to miss something. Like the worry box, where your concerns go to die. Or the pregnant belly cast. Or the detailed artwork along the staircase. Be sure to follow the rules and “move the toys” piled in the sand. But maybe just observe the table of mannequin heads and the perfectly imperfect yard ornaments. Take to heart the signs that read “you belong” and “you are special” because, as Randy puts it, “happiness shouldn’t cost anything.”
“It’s called karma, man. The more you give, the more you live.”
– Randy Gilson
DOWNTOWN & POINT STATE PARK
Brunch at or, The Whale was spectacular. We are fortified. Let the adventure begin. The tip of Pittsburgh’s “Golden Triangle” at the confluence of three rivers.
ACACIA and MT. WASHINGTON
Acacia is a dark, simple bar on Carson street in the South Side. We’re only there for the speakeasy, which is unfortunately not open. But the drinks were delicious and the bartender was helpful, giving us lots of advice on best places to eat. His recommendations included, “sandwiches as big as your head,” “11-pounds of meat that hits the table with a thud,” and “all the street food you can imagine for, like, $9 bucks.” It was far too hot for any of it. But thanks—maybe next time.
We head to the Monongahela Incline, one of the few remaining inclines in the country, for a sunset view of the city. The 6-minute ride up the hill was like a gentle amusement park ride for us, but pure transportation for those that live atop Mt. Washington. This thing opened in 1870 and has been declared an historic structure. Man, I love history. We pour out of our little 6-person boxes and scatter to the lookout points.
STRIP DISTRICT / BAR MARCO
Another interesting Lyft driver takes us to the Strip District. He happened to drop us off in front of the exact cigar bar we enjoyed on our spontaneous Pittsburgh trip 5 years ago. Right around the time we started dating. (Happy anniversary, babe.) It felt like we were in the right place. We skip the cigars and head around the corner to Bar Marco, which did NOT disappoint. Once again, spectacular service, good food and some tasty drinks. We tried 3 kinds of Amaro —one that’s only available in Pittsburgh and Italy (Super Punch), lo-fi, which was sweeter and smoother than most with a Bumble Gum finish, and Branca Menta, Fernet Branca’s mintier cousin. Our bartender then sends over to Lawrenceville for more delicious food and drink.
LAWRENCEVILLE
The neighborhood is quaint with less of a Steel town vibe. Cute and quiet.
With only a neon “G” for signage and smooth hip-hop pouring from the open door, Grapperia was definitely…cool. But grappa can be rough. I had some in Italy. No one liked it. But when you mix it with a cocktail, it’s much easier to enjoy. “Sip it like brandy,” they say. “How about some ginger ale to wash this down with,” Karl says. “No cell phones on date night,” the menu states. “Ok,” we say.
Across the street is Round Corner Cantina. It’s tough to consider tequila after sipping on grappa, but we order drinks and some simple tacos and commence people watching. It’s late but the place begins to fill up with Pittsburgh’s finest youth.
IT’S SATURDAY
We’re up early with our stomachs set on breakfast sandwiches from the Pear & the Pickle before heading south to Frank Lloyd Wright’s, Fallingwater. They were closed for the holiday and we were sad. The bustle of Saturday markets and the season’s first football game sends us packing. Starbucks will do for now.
Fallingwater was pretty stinkin’ awesome. Crazy to think the Kaufman family only spent about 10 weekends a year there. Too busy running their department store I suppose. They had to pay for this $155,000 getaway somehow.
Next stop, Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold. What a site. And so unexpected deep in the twists and turns of West Virginia country roads.
Final stop, DiCarlo’s Pizza. A Wheeling, WV staple since 1945.
“The signature thin and crispy flash baked crust is combined with an authentic sauce that gives way to a provolone cheese that is traditionally served un-melted.”
It was different but delicious. That crust, plus a speed boat race on the river, was a wonderful way to end our weekend getaway.
Thanks again, Pittsburgh.
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